Locals swear by this unpretentious trattoria a couple of blocks away from the beach. The Artizzu family has been serving specialties from the sea since 1979 in their small eatery with yellow-sponged walls. The menu notes that the availability of various dishes changes due to conditions at sea: you get the idea that what you’re eating just came off the boat (and you are). The house specialty is the pricey but divine aragosta alla catalana con verdure (Mediterranean lobster with steamed and raw vegetables). The spiedino di sogliola (sole kebab) arrives with silken mashed potatoes topped with bottarga (a smoked tuna product); the unoily, crunchy fritto misto (mixed fish fry) is a joy. If you can’t decide, order the tasting menu, which gives you a little bit of a lot of the menu. Patrizia makes all the desserts; remember to leave room for them.